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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 42(1): 46-52, 2020 Feb.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31571236

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: Since skin on the lips has a lower water content in the stratum corneum (SC) and a higher transepidermal water loss (TEWL) value than skin on the cheek, the lips are usually very dry and rough areas. Therefore, a lip balm approach to increase occlusivity of the lips is generally used to reduce water loss. Although there have been reports of an improvement effect on lip roughness by specific care agents, differences in the effects due to the occlusivity of a formulation without a specific care agent have not been reported. The purpose of this study was to clarify the improvement effect on dryness and roughness of the lips by a highly occlusive formulation consisting of a combination of common oil and wax, not by a specific care agent. METHODS: Twenty Japanese female subjects with normal skin (age range 20-39 years; mean 28.1) were enrolled in this study. A 4-week continuous use test was conducted using samples with low and high occlusivity. The degree of lip roughness and wrinkles was scored, the hollow index was assessed using ANTERA 3D images, and values of capacitance and TEWL were measured. RESULTS: The hollow index was significantly correlated with both the appearance roughness score and the wrinkle score. The sample with high occlusivity showed significant improvement in the appearance roughness score, wrinkle score, the hollow index and capacitance of the SC. In a comparison between the groups of samples with different occlusive properties, a significant improvement effect in rough appearance was seen in subjects using the highly occlusive formulation. CONCLUSION: The hollow index assessed by ANTERA 3D imaging allowed the objective evaluation of the improvement in appearance. In the case of continuous use of the highly occlusive formulation, an improvement of capacitance in the SC, which is most correlated with lip roughness, was obtained after 2 and 4 weeks. These results demonstrate for the first time that a highly occlusive formulation is effective in improving the roughness of the lips, and this effect is due to the difference in the occlusive property not by a specific care agent.


OBJECTIF: La peau qui recouvre les lèvres ayant une plus faible teneur en eau dans la couche cornée (CC) et une valeur de perte d'eau transépidermique (PETE) plus élevée que la peau des joues, les lèvres sont généralement des zones très sèches et rugueuses. Par conséquent, l'utilisation d'un baume à lèvres pour augmenter l'occlusivité des lèvres est généralement l'approche adoptée pour réduire la perte d'eau. Même s'il y a eu des rapports d'un effet d'amélioration de la rugosité des lèvres grâce à des agents de soin spécifiques, aucune différence par rapport aux effets dus aux propriétés occlusives d'une formule ne contenant pas un agent de soin spécifique n'a été rapportée. Le but de cette étude était de clarifier l'effet d'amélioration de la sécheresse et de la rugosité des lèvres d'une formule hautement occlusive composée d'une association d'huile et de cire courantes, et non pas d'un agent de soin spécifique. MÉTHODES: Vingt sujets de sexe féminin japonais ayant une peau normale (tranche d'âge : 20 à 39 ans ; moyenne : 28,1) ont été inclus dans cette étude. Un test d'utilisation continue pendant 4 semaines a été mené en utilisant des échantillons ayant des propriétés occlusives faibles et élevées. Le degré de rugosité et de ridules des lèvres a été noté, l'indice de creux a été évalué à l'aide d'images 3D ANTERA, et les valeurs de capacitance et de PETE ont été mesurées. RÉSULTATS: L'indice de creux était significativement corrélé avec le score de l'aspect de rugosité et le score de ridules. L'échantillon comportant des propriétés occlusives élevées a démontré une amélioration significative du score de l'aspect de rugosité, du score de ridules, de l'indice de creux et de la capacitance de la CC. Dans une comparaison entre les groupes d'échantillons comportant différentes propriétés occlusives, une amélioration significative de l'effet sur l'aspect rugueux a été observée chez les sujets utilisant la formule aux propriétés occlusives élevées. CONCLUSION: L'indice de creux évalué par l'imagerie 3D ANTERA a permis d'effectuer une évaluation objective de l'amélioration de l'aspect. Dans le cas d'une utilisation continue de la formule aux propriétés occlusives élevées, une amélioration de la capacitance de la CC, qui était le plus corrélée avec la rugosité des lèvres, a été atteinte au bout de 2 et 4 semaines. Ces résultats montrent pour la première fois qu'une formule aux propriétés occlusives élevées est efficace dans l'amélioration de la rugosité des lèvres, et cet effet est dû à la différence dans les propriétés occlusives et non pas à un agent de soin spécifique.


Assuntos
Lábio/efeitos dos fármacos , Perda Insensível de Água/efeitos dos fármacos , Adulto , Feminino , Humanos , Lábio/patologia , Adulto Jovem
2.
Skin Res Technol ; 24(3): 472-478, 2018 Aug.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-29405429

RESUMO

BACKGROUND/AIMS: Lips can easily become dry and rough and their biggest problems are drying and chapping. The cause of those problems is considered to be that the stratum corneum (SC) moisture is small and its barrier function is low. However, those problems decrease in subjects as they approach 40 years of age, after which problems due to their shape and color increase. The purpose of this study was to investigate relationships between SC properties of the lips during aging and to clarify the cause(s) of lip problems. METHODS: One hundred and 38 Japanese female subjects with normal skin ranging in age from 16 to 78 years were enrolled in the study. The capacitance and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values, viscoelasticity, and color of their lips were measured and compared with their cheeks. RESULTS: The capacitance values for the lip and the cheek increased and TEWL values for both areas decreased with age. TEWL values for the lip decreased until ~30 years of age and this is considered to be related to the problem of drying. Although the maximum amplitude Uf of the lip increased with age, the Ur /Uf had no correlation with age. As for color, the L* and a* values decreased with age. CONCLUSION: Age-related changes with regard to SC functions, viscoelasticity and color of the lips have been clarified for the first time, and it is clear that these changes are related to problems of the lips. Compared with the cheeks, differences with the lips are more apparent.


Assuntos
Bochecha , Cor , Lábio , Envelhecimento da Pele/fisiologia , Fenômenos Fisiológicos da Pele , Pele , Adolescente , Adulto , Fatores Etários , Idoso , Elasticidade , Capacitância Elétrica , Feminino , Humanos , Pessoa de Meia-Idade , Perda Insensível de Água , Adulto Jovem
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